Flax was cultivated in quarter acre plots like
hemp, and grown, as the Act of Parliament
suggested, to find work for 'the idle poor'. The process of
preparing the thread was similar to that used on hemp
fibres, with the spinning invariably a female
occupation. Anne Green, who was a 'spinster' living at South
Elmham All Saints, left in her will of 1626 'all my hempe which I
have now pelled' - a term used
for the spun fibres. To get on in the textile trade, training as a
weaver was a good move, so we hear of Robert Goodwin of Metfield being
made an apprentice to Henry Rackham in 1657. Rackham was a linen weaver
by trade and he demanded a binding fee of £6 to cover Robert
Goodwin until he reached the age of
24 years. The master weaver promised 'to teach,
instruct and informe him in the craft and misterie which he, the said
Henry Rackham now useth commonly called weaverscraft'.
The next step was to work your own loom, and in
1590 Robert Valye of Bungay is reported to own two looms, valued at
just under £20 using servants who would have been apprentices or
journeymen. Some craftsmen obviously moonlighted, for John Banor alias
Barber of Stradbroke described himself as a weaver with several looms,
but also as a minstrel. It seems to have been a rewarding profession,
for some 842 East Anglian linen weavers are known from various types
of historical records ... records in which you seldom appeared unless
you had money, property or belongings. The value of the yarn itself
could be considerable, for Thomas Winter of South Elmham had, in the
17th century, a stock of yarn worth £78.
The knitting of stockings was a cottage industry in the Waveney
Valley, so much that Celia Fiennes, the writer/traveller, wrote 'the
ordinary people, both of Suffolk and Norfolk knitt much and spin'
and in the 1620s, 70,000 pairs of stockings a year were exported
through Yarmouth, mainly to Rotterdam.
The last linen made in Bungay was woven at the
same time that the Halesworth Hemp industry was dying in 1855. There,
in the premises of Mr. John Henry Smith of St.
Mary's Street, six looms had been employed up to that date, the
last weaver being Charles Chapman. Bungay canvas was considered very
good for sails for the fishing industry.